bpo-32030: Rework memory allocators (#4625)

* Fix _PyMem_SetupAllocators("debug"): always restore allocators to
  the defaults, rather than only caling _PyMem_SetupDebugHooks().
* Add _PyMem_SetDefaultAllocator() helper to set the "default"
  allocator.
* Add _PyMem_GetAllocatorsName(): get the name of the allocators
* main() now uses debug hooks on memory allocators if Py_DEBUG is
  defined, rather than calling directly malloc()
* Document default memory allocators in C API documentation
* _Py_InitializeCore() now fails with a fatal user error if
  PYTHONMALLOC value is an unknown memory allocator, instead of
  failing with a fatal internal error.
* Add new tests on the PYTHONMALLOC environment variable
* Add support.with_pymalloc()
* Add the _testcapi.WITH_PYMALLOC constant and expose it as
   support.with_pymalloc().
* sysconfig.get_config_var('WITH_PYMALLOC') doesn't work on Windows, so
   replace it with support.with_pymalloc().
* pythoninfo: add _testcapi collector for pymem

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